The
pore plug is a combination of oils, sebum and dead skin cells. Open to the
skin's surface, the plug becomes darkened as it is exposed to oxygen. Whiteheads
are closed at the skin's surface, blocked by cellular debris but not exposed to
oxygen so remain light in colour. Blackheads, whiteheads and blocked pores are
usually caused by a combination of factors. In addition dead skin cells,
pollution, occlusive make up and dirt also play a role by filling up pores
already opened by sebum and oil production. Each factor will contribute to
congestion in a different but significant way: Skin Oil & Sebum: excess oil
and sebum production by the skin will contribute to clogging pores and
encourage the growth of skin bacteria. When combined with external factors such
as dirt, blackheads easily form. Toxic Congestion: blood and lymph supply the
skin with nutrition. However, if the toxins that are produced in our bodies
everyday are not eliminated properly, they are eliminated via the skin and can
contribute to congestion as well as other issues such as acne and skin irritation.
Dead Skin Cells: Each 3 or 4 weeks the skin replenishes the skin cells. This
natural process creates a layer of dead skin cells over the surface of the
skin. If not removed, the dead skin cells create dull looking skin. The other
thing that may happen is that the dead cells will plug the pores on your face
and create congestion and blackheads. When combined with excessive sebum
production, this can lead to the formation of white-heads and black heads. Skin
Care & Make Up: The key culprits in skin congestion are products that
contain petrochemical based oils as they have an occlusive effect, stopping
the skin from breathing and blocking pores.
Talc, which is common in make up
and finishing powder, also has Dermaclear this effect. Waxes and butters may also be an
issue with skin prone to congestion. Make up is usually worn on a daily basis
so it is essential to choose a make up that suits your skin type and doesn't
contribute to further congestion. Pollution & Dirt: Building up on the
surface of skin over the day, pollution is a factor in the formation of
blackheads and blocked pores. The more polluted the area in which you live, the
more skin pollution you are likely to experience. Effective skin cleansing is
vital to clean the skin of daily dirt and grime...and a splash of water at the
end of the day just doesn't cut it. Dirt that is found on our face and other
parts of the body can be a breeding ground for bacteria and combined with oily
skin can make things even worse. Where does the dirt come from? Dirty hands are
a key culprit and those already conscious of their skin tend to pick and rub
their skin more than others, just making the problem worse. Treatment of of
Blackheads So, how to get rid of blackheads and congested skin? Well squeezing
them out is not the answer. This technique will just lead to further skin
irritation and possibly damage and scarring to the surrounding tissue. Rather
than removing blackheads by squeezing, the best way to get rid of them is by
attacking the source of the problem. 1. A good cleansing routine: Cleansing the
skin of daily dirt, grime and pollution is essential. A good cleansing routine
is a very effective way to remove blackheads, as it will help wash away excess
oil and dead skin particles. Use a gentle cleanser as harsh and overly-drying
cleansers will only make the problem worse by causing an increase in sebum
production. If your skin feels squeaky clean, dry and tight after washing, you
are doing more harm than good and need to use a more gentle cleanser.
Avoid
products with Sodium laurel sulphate as this ingredient tends to disrupt the
acid mantle again causing increased sebum production. 2. Regular gentle
exfoliation: one way to minimise congestion and clogged pores is to ensure the
top layer skin remains clear by regularly removing the dead skin cells. There
are a number of very effective products you can use to remove dead skin cells.
Regular use of facial exfoliants or scrubs will help clear dead skin cells that
block pores. Removing the top layer of dead cells will also allow your
moisturiser or serum work more effectively as it comes into contact with live
skin cells rather than dead ones. There are a couple of things to look for in a
good exfoliant. The most obvious, although it is surprising how many people
ignore this, is that a body scrub is too harsh to be used as a facial scrub.
Look for a very fine, soft exfoliant as your facial skin is soft and delicate.
A harsh scrub may actually scour the surface of your skin much like a scrubbing
brush and this can actually damage skin cells. If your skin is excessively red
or inflamed after use they are far too strong. Gentle exfoliants will slough
off cells without a harsh scrubbing effect and are suitable to be used 2-3
times a week. 3. Fruit Enzyme Peels: enzyme peels are another way of clearing
dead skin cells. They work as a result of their ability to break the bonds
between dead skin cells that form at the surface of the skin. Skin normally has
a dead layer of cells at its surface (the corneocyte layer), and fruit enzymes
can speed up the normal process of skin cell regeneration and sloughing.
This
results in increased flexibility of the skin as well as decreased formation of
large dry skin flakes at the surface of the skin. Pumpkin, pineapple and pawpaw
provide natural, gentle enzyme proteases that loosen the glue between dead skin
cells, slough away impurities, dead skin cells and unplug the pores while
delivering nutrition to the skin. This leaves the skin cleansed and silky
smooth and reduces the likelihood of blackheads. Fruit enzyme 'peels' only need
to be used once or twice a week for good effect. 4. Light Moisturisers:
moisturisers that use waxes, butters and petrochemical oils will be more likely
to contribute to congestion in skin that is prone to blackheads. Please note
that waxes and butters are perfectly suitable and definitely beneficial for
those with dry or dehydrated skin but for those with congested skin, choose
lotions rather than rich creams. If you have combination skin and suffer from
congestion as well as dry skin, use oil based serums or hyaluronic acid to
increase moisture content in the skin without contributing to further blockage.
5. Salicylic acid and glycolic acid in high concentrations are common
recommendations for skin congestion and while they might be effective in the
short term they can cause significant problems and can be counter-productive to
softening and dissolving blackheads as they can dehydrate dry, normal and
combination skin. In addition, those with a history of use of high concentration
glycolic acid can suffer redness and irritation at a later date when exposed to
even mildly acidic ingredients such as ascorbic acid. If you choose to use such
products, firstly use them in consultation with a skin specialist, use low
concentrations, use them short term only and watch for signs of skin
dehydration.
Make Up: Mineral make up is an ideal alternative for those with
congested skin. Rather than sinking into or filling pores, the particles of
pigment sit on the surface of the skin allowing the skin to breathe properly.
This helps minimise congestion and eventually, allows the pores to shrink. 7.
Dietary & Lifestyle tips: Plenty of water will help flush toxins out of
your system and regular and regular exercise will keep your lymphatic system
flowing. Together both these factors will help reduce the level of toxins being
eliminated via the skin. Research conducted at RMIT University, Melbourne, has
shown that a low glycemic index (GI), moderate protein diet improved symptoms
of acne including the number of facial lesions. The diet consisted of 25% of
energy from protein and 45% of energy from low GI carbohydrates such as fruit
and vegetables, grains and pulses. While this research was conducted on
patients with acne, there are strong correlations between high GI diets and
skin congestion as well. Generally a high GI diet is associated with a greater
degree of systemic body toxicity and inflammation and those prone to skin
conditions are likely to eliminate toxins through the skin more readily. A diet
high in vegetables, fruit, good fats, lean protein, nuts & seeds is ideal
for the skin as it contains lots of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants that
support skin health. What We Are Told Almost daily we are bombarded with a new
skin care product and are told that if we use this product, our skin will look
younger, smoother, more attractive and so on.
We are presented with pictures of
young, attractive women who have probably never used the products their faces
are associated with and probably never will. We are lead to believe that 'the
active ingredient' in these products are a new discovery (usually they also get
some sort of pseuo-scientific name) and if we use the product that has this
'magical' ingredient we will end up with 20 year young skin - Sure ! The Truth
About Skin Care Skin care is just that - taking care of one's skin, nothing
more, nothing less. How you do this can depend on many things. The health of
your skin, money, time,
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